I am wondering if it would be a problem in any way if I just connected my 4 gauge power wire straight to where the power wire bolts to the starter on my truck. It looks like the wire coming from the battery to the starter is either 4 gauge or larger, so i don't think it would be a disadvantage in that respect. I'm asking this because I think that it would be much easier and cheaper than buying all that I would need to connect it straight to the battery (side post to top post converter, terminal clamp, etc.).
Any comment would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat
Replies (5)
uochronos on 12/23/2003 00:44:18
I dont know if that would be a bad idea. but can you not just screw your power wire to the batery terminals adjustment screw? the one that tightings your batery clamp down? i have just connected there on all 3 of my cars.
curtis73 on 12/23/2003 02:16:43
I really don't know, but my guess is that it wouldn't be the smartest. Starters draw so much amperage and make so much noise (electronically speaking) that they might hurt something. The wild voltage/amperage spikes might hurt the amp somehow. Putting the source power close to the battery, the more it can act like a buffer for voltage spikes. I always put mine directly to the battery in most cases, but maybe I'm being over cautious
Swez on 12/23/2003 06:53:10
In theory, the voltage at the starter cable is the same as at the battery terminal. However, when the starter is engaged, there is a large current draw spike until the engine starts and lots of RF noise generated by the starter.
Most cars I have dabbled with, funnel most of the battery reserve power to the starter/ignition circuits until the engine starts. Once the engine starts, the ALT will kick in and refill the battery drain and provide current to the rest of the electrical system as needed.
Yes, you can tap into that starter feed line, but in most cases, we use the battery as a buffer and filtering agent. Any noise or spurious AC that gets past the ALT rectifiers and regulator, are filtered out by the battery.
Also, side terminals are a pain... but some newer batteries come with both side and top mounted output lugs. These make adding new wires for amps a breeze and all the wiring is easy to get at this way. Since you have a 1994 vehicle, you are most likely on the last legs of a 2nd battery already. If it is weakend now or not adequate CCA ampere rating (less than say 800 CCA) you will probably need a new one sooner or later anyway. (depends on the amplifiers used) An average OEM battery will last ~ 4 winters. (unless you live in a very cold climate) Then the battery life may be a bit shorter. A quick load test on the ALT & BAT will tell you the general health of both components... then you can deside what is needed and plan ahead, rather than react to a dead battery.
Swez
cplkittle on 12/23/2003 12:26:51
I personally prefer the gold plated battery eye candy. I purchased all of mine at auto zone, and it was right at $30 total for 2 gold sidepost extended bolts (+& -) and 4-4gauge gold terminals (2 pos, 2 neg). But that is just preference.
Yes, it can get expensive if you go with monster cable or stinger brand terminals ($10-12 ea).
spike_pat on 12/24/2003 01:05:36
Thanks everyone! I'll definitely reconsider my plans, hehe.
Any comment would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Pat
Replies (5)
uochronos on 12/23/2003 00:44:18
I dont know if that would be a bad idea. but can you not just screw your power wire to the batery terminals adjustment screw? the one that tightings your batery clamp down? i have just connected there on all 3 of my cars.
curtis73 on 12/23/2003 02:16:43
I really don't know, but my guess is that it wouldn't be the smartest. Starters draw so much amperage and make so much noise (electronically speaking) that they might hurt something. The wild voltage/amperage spikes might hurt the amp somehow. Putting the source power close to the battery, the more it can act like a buffer for voltage spikes. I always put mine directly to the battery in most cases, but maybe I'm being over cautious
Swez on 12/23/2003 06:53:10
In theory, the voltage at the starter cable is the same as at the battery terminal. However, when the starter is engaged, there is a large current draw spike until the engine starts and lots of RF noise generated by the starter.
Most cars I have dabbled with, funnel most of the battery reserve power to the starter/ignition circuits until the engine starts. Once the engine starts, the ALT will kick in and refill the battery drain and provide current to the rest of the electrical system as needed.
Yes, you can tap into that starter feed line, but in most cases, we use the battery as a buffer and filtering agent. Any noise or spurious AC that gets past the ALT rectifiers and regulator, are filtered out by the battery.
Also, side terminals are a pain... but some newer batteries come with both side and top mounted output lugs. These make adding new wires for amps a breeze and all the wiring is easy to get at this way. Since you have a 1994 vehicle, you are most likely on the last legs of a 2nd battery already. If it is weakend now or not adequate CCA ampere rating (less than say 800 CCA) you will probably need a new one sooner or later anyway. (depends on the amplifiers used) An average OEM battery will last ~ 4 winters. (unless you live in a very cold climate) Then the battery life may be a bit shorter. A quick load test on the ALT & BAT will tell you the general health of both components... then you can deside what is needed and plan ahead, rather than react to a dead battery.
Swez
cplkittle on 12/23/2003 12:26:51
I personally prefer the gold plated battery eye candy. I purchased all of mine at auto zone, and it was right at $30 total for 2 gold sidepost extended bolts (+& -) and 4-4gauge gold terminals (2 pos, 2 neg). But that is just preference.
Yes, it can get expensive if you go with monster cable or stinger brand terminals ($10-12 ea).
spike_pat on 12/24/2003 01:05:36
Thanks everyone! I'll definitely reconsider my plans, hehe.
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