Yes you read it correctly- Home Audio. This is my personal secret for low budget builds. Remember this install is all about low budget and effiecncy, if you got money, or can't handle a ghetto rigged system, read a different article. But if you do it right, it will sound good, and you will impress some people
Of course, not every componet can or has to be home audio, but with home audio's usually lower power handling charectaristics, but similar sensitivity, you can go crazy with little money-there is some things you may have to give up, but cash won't be one of them if you do this right. Let me break it down for you.
Shopping- Before I begin, Pawn shops can be your best friend if done correctly. Some offer good warranties on the gear they sell, others offer none, but most will have at least 7 days, although I have purchased a 6-month warranty for $10. In this warranty period, ABUSE your gear. Welcome to Hell week is what you need to say. If it's gonna pop, pop it and get your money back, If it's stout, your'e good to go. Just be careful not to blow stupp on the 8th day or first day of your 7th month. If they don't offer a warranty, or wont let you listen to and test home audio gear at least, (as not all shops can demo car audio) don't buy from them. They are more likely so sell you crap, rip you off or generally make your day suck. All of the items your looking can be found for cheap if you shop smart, and at least act if you know what your talking about when you explain how "horrible the thing will work, and how dreadfully overpriced it is. Pawn shops will always negotiate, except if they just put it on their floor. If it's been there a long time , they will usually go out of their way to move it, sometimes even taking losses on the sale.
Head unit- Of all the componets used in your system, Your head unit is the only one you can't cheap out on. Check around your local pawnbrokers, you can usaully find a decent unit with 4-volt amp outputs for under $100. DO NOT BUY ANYTHING WITH LESS VOLTAGE!! It is a waste, expecially if you want to run real car audio later down the road. For this install, I reccomend STRONGLY a dedicated subwoofer output, with volume adjustability right off the deck. Midrange adjustments are reccommended but not really neccassary.
Tower Speakers, Possible One Stop Shop- You have a LOT of options here, so take your time and weigh them all. If you find a decent set of tower speakers, you can power them off a small two channel and be done with.
Don't worry about Ohmage so much as 4 ohm speakers can be ran stereo and and 8 ohm sets can be ran bridged. Look for something 50-100W RMS per speaker for best low budget results. Anything more pretty much defeats the purpose of using home audio.
If you have a wagon, hatchback, SUV or are willing to give up some cabin space, (who need's it anyway?) you can call it good right here if you want. With single input units, Run them full range on your amp. Your'e done. You have good sound through all frequency, provided you select 3-4 way speakers with at least 8" bass drivers.
If you get Bi-Amped units, you can hook the subs up to an amp, the speakers up to your deck, and really kick some @$$.
Bookshelf Speakers- These are good for your midbass and up, but not reccomended for deep bass. A pair or quartet of these hooked up to your head unit can sound great if high pass filters are used, and they are matched up well with your head unit.
Wall mounted surround speakers- These are not the best selection for the task at hand, as they will need high pass filters, and seldom handle much power. If you must, use these for mid-high notes only, as bass and mid bass notes will usually kill them. They just aren't meant for this, as usually surround sound systems put these in for surround sound staging only. I don't reccomend these.
Subwoofers- This may not be neccassary if you bust out the tower speakers. A lot of these have the bass you need in one package with your high-mid speakers.
If you chose not to, or can't due to space issues look for passive subwoofers or active subwoofers with defective Amps. Most passive units offer built in crossovers but some do not. If not, this shouldnt be a problem unless running subs of the head unit. then you will need a passive crossover. Look for units rated from 50-100W RMS if you plan to run two, or 100-200 for one. Most subs are 4 ohm units, while some are 8. You can sometimes find subs from 5.1 DVD players that are very compact, can be slid under your front seat, and have 50W peak ratings. Perfect for your head unit if you use a crossover. Don't worry about Ohmage so much as 4 ohm speakers can be ran stereo and and 8 ohm sets can be ran bridged
Amplifier- Shoot for a two channel 100-200 RMS. use it to power eithier tower speakers or subs, bookshelves aren't going to work here. Don't worry about brand, most of your system is going to be cheap and ghetto anyway. Don't worry about Ohmage so much as 4 ohm speakers can be ran stereo and and 8 ohm sets can be ran bridged
Installation- I cannot stress the importance of wiring. Use tiny wire for small, low powered speakers, use the biggest you can afford for big subwoofers and tower speakers. Use a decent set of rca's, be wiling to fork over 20-30 bucks for these. Rca's wil make or break this install. So will batt-amp and amp-groung cables. I reccomend going one size bigger on these. Do not use a ground over 12 inches in length, as it makes it harder for the amp to make power. Use gold plated connectors on all amp connections, they can be found for not too expensive, and you'll thank yourself later.
Well aright, I don't have your ride here, or your gear, so I can't help you much more. I do however hope I helped, and any questions can be shot at Shanksta187420@aol.com
Happy Bumpin'!
Shootuh McBustaCap
