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by oldtimerocnrol65
Start New Question Here -- Back to Tree
Year Make Model: 2002 hyundia sonada

I have a 2002 Hyundia Sonata. I have acquired 0ne pair of boston acoustic s635 6 1/2", 2 bumper 10" 1096 IPMF 525 watt no box, a Qlogic in box no idea of watage, a kicker zx 450.2 amp, and a jvc kd-hdr50 head unit. Can someone tell me if any of it is any good or not. Someone that got laid off borrowed some money and this is what I got back where should I start.

Page Views: 477
Reply Posted: 10/29/2009 20:34:30 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Can you find a link to the BA s635 speakers? (Specs and details?) It would seem these are 3-way, 6.5" Coaxial or Component speakers. With adequate power to drive them, these should be pretty nice up in the front doors.

The Kicker zx 450.2 is a solid amp. It's best used as a solid sub amp in bridged Mono mode to a 4 ohm sub load. (450-500 watts RMS)

http://www.etronics.com/p-40315-kicker-08zx4502-kicker-08zx4502-450w-rms-21.aspx

The JVC HU has several nice features and toys to use. It has 2 pair of RCA outs, 7-Band EQ, Aux/USB Inputs and other features that are common in more expensive HU's. This is usable too:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7F6QnUJupnw/p_105KDHDR50/JVC-KD-HDR50.html

The subs and Q-Logic box noted may or may not be well matched for solid and tight bass. Q-L makes decent boxes for many sub apps, but the subs must be a reasonable match for the box to get the most from the combo. (I cannot tell from the info mentioned in your details)

In short, you have a solid Kicker amp. A decent JVC HU and maybe a nice pair of BA speakers. The rest is kinda hit or miss w/o more details.

Swez

Reply Posted: 10/29/2009 21:08:21 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

i had a friend through me an alpine v-force 200 4 way amp and a farad cap some wiring a set of 6 1/2 polk audio db651 and a set of alpein 6X9 sps690a 250 watt. doese any one have any knoledge on the bumper subs all i found was a website called bumperind.com i emailed twice still no response and i called but the person was very short and just answered hello not like a business all he said was they were subs. could you tell me if i have a start and what i should dump and what i should look for. and there is a qlogic sub in the qlogic box but i have no info on it yet i have not pulled it out to read it as of yet thank you again.
thank you for the info and any help is very appriciated because i have no idea of what i am doing except what i find on line.

Reply Posted: 10/29/2009 21:10:52 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

i'm not sure if im posting right and giving the correct info if not please correct me this is the first forum i have joined. thank you very much old time rocnrol

Reply Posted: 10/30/2009 13:35:14 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Seems like you're on the right track with most of the gear acquired so far. That Alpine V-12 amp should be fine for the interior speakers. (4 channels yes?)

Here, some test bench work will help determine what works best before you head into full install mode. Did some digging and this car has 6.5" front speakers and 6x9's in the rear. That's a good match for the speakers you have on hand now. A modest amp, (40-60 watts per channel) to power them will be good.

As for your Bass Engine, that Kicker amp is plenty if the sub(s) is/are well matched to amp and Q-Logic box. All Q-Logic boxes have model/serial numbers on them somewhere to help ID the box specs. That would be most helpful. If that is not located, one can measure all dimensions to determine the internal airspace and match subs based on dimensions.

Here's more detail on Bumper Industries. Some of their speakers, woofers and horn drivers look pretty solid for a wide range of uses. Knowing the "Theil/Small Parameters" for these 1096 IPMF subs would be most helpful. Ask for those specs and see what comes back.

FYI: You won't understand the T/S specs, but they are most helpful to our tech guys. Knowing those details, we can tell what type of box to use for best results.

http://www.bumperind.com/catalog.pdf

Finally, it sounds like you have a loaded Q-Logic sub enclosure already. Knowing what sub was installed into this box will help. With the Kicker amp you now have, a single strong 10-12" sub should deliver solid Bass SPL in your Sonata.

Comments?
Swez

Reply Posted: 10/30/2009 15:15:38 by: admin The Wizard

VIA EMAIL:

Thank you for the info so far i'll try to gather some more info on the stuff i have i'm not sure when i'll pick the rest of the stuff up yet but i'll post it when i do just fyi this project is for my son he is 15 and the car isn't much but i would like him to have decent tunes. I know that was the more important of the two for me when i was 16.
thanks again
Bill

Reply Posted: 10/30/2009 17:22:11 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Bill,

It's great that you are in this project for your son and trying to help him pull a "swell rabbit" out of the hat. It matters to our kids that we get involved and help pull things along when they are still young and learning. (Hat off from a fellow Dad!)

Just one thing... this takes time and rushing to a so-so result is not as important as teaching that great things take time, planning and a lot of patience.

FYI: Had to go through the same issues with my oldest daughter. She had it fixed in her mind that she knew what the issues were and wanted to rip and replace things w/o a careful evaluation of what she had already. (Not so fast dear child)

We worked through the basics on my insistance, (Humor me OK?) and after a 20-min tweaking session, (Butting Heads indeed)... the results came right into place w/o a single panel to remove.

"How'd ya figure this one out so fast Dad?" "Experience" my daughter and a logical sequence of tests before we did more harm than good"!
She got it and I'll never forget her looks of frustration, turned to an Ahh Hah moment later either.

Swez



Reply Posted: 10/31/2009 04:42:34 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

This just came to me and had to put it in so I would know what to do. I know a little about watts ohms and voltage my question is the alpine amp
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/500/500MRPT130.PDF
kicker http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6571_Kicker+ZX450.2.html
my math is rusty it's 4am , I only have a 90 amp alternator will I need to go up to around 200amp alt and a cap or am i way off(I hope) I took a closer look at the Qlogic box But didn't find any Identifying features other than it looks like a well thought out process. the speaker in it is a bolt though just a Qlogic grill. I will try to pull it out some time today now that it is around 6am. Yes I am slow but persistant. thanks to all.
Bill

Reply Posted: 10/31/2009 07:30:12 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Bill,

Good thing to consider when building a strong system from the ground up. However, this system is not big enough to warrant any major electrical upgrades. Some minor tweaks would be worth considering:

1. Gel Cell Battery upgrade (~700 CCA rated)
2. Big 3 wiring upgrade (See FAQ topic)

See, the bass amp draws the most power as it takes a good deal of energy to produce lows at higher SPL levels. Mids and highs do not require much power to keep up as they are much more efficient transducers.

You may note some light dimming on hard bass hits at idle speeds. The Big 3 wiring and a stronger BAT can help that a lot. So does turning down the system when parked. Once the engine speed picks up, so does the charging rate.

FYI: Surge Caps don't really work as advertized. Yes, they can help with minor light dimming issues in smaller systems. But in larger systems, they cannot store enough sustained energy to make a real difference.

Finally, that Q-Logic sub kit may be a solid product for the Bass Engine. A single 10" or 12" sub that is 4 ohms and can handle 400 watts RMS, would be enough to get the job done with that Kicker amp in bridged mode. Do you have the dimensions of this box handy?

We can calculate the internal airspace if we know the external "H", "W", "D" and wood thickness used in this box.

Swez (Dave)

Reply Posted: 11/3/2009 12:22:18 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Reply Posted: 11/3/2009 12:57:25 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Missing some key data here Old Timer. Care to ellaborate?

Swez

Reply Posted: 11/3/2009 13:01:42 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

ok here goes. Over the weekend i picked up a tsunami 1.2 farad amp i guess this wont help that much from reading but should i go ahead and use it or not(it has a 3 number didgital display on it???) it also has 20vdc-95degree c. hope this helps. I also was given about 20" of 4awg wire (I know this was a good thing) and a set of kicker 12" compvr 12vr doual 4ohm voice coils. I have no box for the kickers and have not got back to the qlogic box yet. I did I tought him souldering one o one with the old wires and new speakers. Then we bench tested the kicker amp with the 2 12" kickers lots of base just not sure the kicker zx450.2 is big enough to push them but it was plent loud and deep for me. lol Before we go any further I would appriciate some input on what to do next, I think I would like to run the wireing and then maybe the alpine amp. Do I need to up grade the speaker wires and would under the passenger seat be a good place for the alpine. If I put it under the front seat it would be an easer install but i'm wondering then where I should put the kicker ho help keep it kool unless I put it in the spare tire slot then there won't be any air movement unless i leave out the carpet and cover realy don't want to do an ugly job though.
I'm not real sure about putting the alpine under the front seat it requires removing the seat and then not alot of air flow eather. Wow I guess location is more important than i was figured.Next what should I do about the sub ordeal I think the tens would be plenty but would like to leave room for upgrades so maybe I should go ahead with the 12's. Could these be mounted to the back of the back seats and build enclousers or should i go ahead and try to find a box. if you let me know where to go fron here I would appriciate it and what do i do about the rest of the wireing i'm getting ideas from reading the post here but knowledge in my hands can be dangerious
Thanks aagain swez and and wizard and all that read and can feel for me.
Bill

Ps. remember as I am doing this people keep giving me things so you never what will pop up next.

Reply Posted: 11/3/2009 13:11:29 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

I just seen you posted while I was trying to get the info together and type this post. I think the info you are asking for is about the qlogic if so I have not got that far yet like I say im slow. And the bumper subs they have not returned any of a few emails now and he just wouldn't discuss it with me when i called. Let me know which way i should go qlogic bumpers or the kickers I'm leaning twords the kickers just don't know what to do for a box until I can afford one or stumble across one.
thanks again
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/3/2009 19:09:37 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Hehe Bill, ya make me as I read your posts. We've handled thousands like them over the years and you're in good hands at CK.

If I recall rightly, the Sonata has drop down rear seat backs for extended cargo room yes? Using one seat back in the down position will really help spread the bass inside this car. The other side can be used to build a small amp rack to hold both amps and have plenty of cooling too. (Amp rack is a small board of 3/4" thick MDF to hold your amps and mount them to the rear seat back panel)

As for sub use, a pair of 10's or one strong 12" is plenty for this Kicker amp. Even a strong 10" would be good, depending on what's in your Q-Logic enclosure. Is it loaded or empty?

The Kicker subs are very solid products in sealed or ported systems. To match the amp you have now, you'll need both of them, wired in parallel, one sub per channel, to get the most from that Kicker amp. Are you handy with wood working? If yes, make your own sub enclosure. If not, we can find you a dual 12" sub box that won't break the bank.

That Tsunami Cap... use it as it won't hurt and you can monitor voltage and it will help your Kicker sub amp to some degree. The #4 gage wire is great for this install. Depending on the wire length, it will handle about 80 amperes of current and be your main power feed line and perhaps enough to do the Big 3 upgrade as well. If you need a few more feet, no biggie as this wire is not that expensive to buy or find.

Each amp will do fine with #8 gage wire for power and grounding. The Kicker amp is fused at 60A's and the Alpine is fused at 25A's. A master fuse at the battery with 75-80A's is adequate and #8 wire. From there, you can split the #4 to a pair of #8 lines at the CAP and each amp gets a #8 ground and power line.

Kicker ZX-450.2 Manual:

http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/2008%20ZX%20350%20450%20550%20850-2%20d01%20web.pdf

Finally, I would sit on the Bumper subs for now until you get more details from the MFG. If anything, they will be good trading material later or used at another time. For now, it would be good to figure out what that Q-Logic box is and consider the Kicker CRV's as a fall-back option.

More later,
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/3/2009 21:09:56 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Here is the facts I can find on the qlogic box. It has a bolt speaker pulled it out no info. The 10" hole is set down in a recess that is 11 1/2" across the boox is carpeted with a thin layer of white insulation inside it is particale board measures just a hair over 1/2 so probably 5/8 is what they call it. Each end is recessed aproximately 1/2" it is 13 1/2" tall X 22 1/2" long 4 3/4" deep on top and 6 3/4 on the bottom trapazoid i think is what you call it. The bolt speaker looks cheap to me but i'm deffenitly the one to say buut the ends are solidered to the connections so that part is right. I also was at home depot they had a peace of 6ga. about 2' long for 9 bucks so I picked that up if it wont work here I will find another use for it. The seats are split and do fold down independently so that is a terrific idea thanks swez for all your input. I will see if I can make anything out on this bolt speaker on the web. would pics of the box or aanything else help if so just say so and i'll tyry to figure out how to post them.
Thanks to all and see ya soon I am starting to get a little ancious now. Should I run all new speaker wire if so what size I think I have some 16 guage I used on my house speakers.
thank you and you have no idea how much i appriciate the help.If there are any specs I can locate for you or anything I need to research please let me know. as far as the wood working I am pretty with a saw and a peace of wood so if I new what to do i could build it I just don't get all the air volume stuff yet so help here would also be very nice I think I might step it up bsome and see how it goes but not to fast and I am not moving untill you tell me where to proceed to next so thank you.
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/3/2009 21:53:38 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

here is a link to that bolt speaker I found http://www.buy.com/prod/lightning-audio-b2104-10-inch-bolt-subwoofer/q/loc/111/90119668.html I saw one site thak showed it in the Qlogic box but lost the sight before i saved the info. I'm realy interested to start the next step. Remember we did install the front and rear speakers and the hu but that is basicaly straight forward so I need pointed in the right direction for the next step tomorrow i will pick up a peace of mdf board but if you see this before then let me know what to pick up for a box and i migh do that while i'm there. My wife was reading through the post and asked if we could go ahead and put the 12's together for him and set it up so maybe latter we can just pick up a bigger amp if we do the wiring right to start with. I told her I would ask to see what I would need to do and ask because I didn't know if the kicker would even push th 12". So I guess We should start out right liike it is bigger so it wont be to expensive and not have to rebuy every thing to upgrade if he wants or we decide to do it for him. I don't know how to say thank you for your paitence with me and the help I know i'm a confusing person. Can I start runing the wiring and should I go all the way to the trunk with the 4awg to start with I think I have plenty it 1s as long as the car and half of it again. if I run it to the trunk couldn't I just mount a block by the amps and put the cap and a spliter there. Also can I come into that cap with the 4awg and come out with it or is that just a waste? I know these are probably dumb questions that I can figure out myself but I would rather read the post them have someone tell me so I can reafirm what I find out for myself.
Thanks again:
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/4/2009 10:28:12 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Hey Bill,

Can ya do a small favor for this ol' man? Space out the details into paragraphs that are consistant per topic. These "wall of text" posts are hard to read. (Much appreciated and thanks)

Now, let's get a plan in order here. There are so many woofers in this mix right now, it's a good idea to pick your best parts and go from there. That would be the Kicker 12's. They are strong subs and can be powered off that ZX450.2 amp just fine for now. If you have basic wood working skills and tools on hand, building a box for them per Kicker specs would not be too difficult.

If you buy a sheet of MDF, (4' x 8' x 3/4" thick) from Home Depot or a local lumber store, they can cut the panels for you to specs and all you need to do is assemble it, cut out the speakers holes and install the vents and wiring.

OK, have a good look at the box building specs for the "compact vent enclosure". (Page 4 in the manual) All the board dimension are there and you can build twin boxes and screw/glue them together to make one larger box if desired or one larger box with a divider panel between each chamber. (Just double the width and add 3/4" for the center divider board)

FYI: Most guys will use 1/4" x 1/4" graph/chart paper to map out each panel and other views as needed. The paper is 8.5" x 11.0" and each box can be scaled as needed to get an accurate rendering.

Are these the Kicker subs you have now?

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2067C12VR4/Kicker-CompVR-07CVR124.html?tp=111 (Sub specs)

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/206/2067C10VR2.PDF
(Enclosure recommendations)

As for the other subs mentioned, consider them as trading materials or other projects down the road. The Q-Logic is probably worth about $125-150.00 with that Lightening Bolt sub. (Entry level sub, 200-250 watts RMS) Heck, you could even use it in your Home Stereo system to bring up the low bass. All that is needed is a modest bass amp to power it. (More on that later if you wish)

Finally, if you think a larger amp for the subs are in the mix later, just use larger gage wiring to accomodate a larger amp later. (1/0 gage wire) It would be best to use a Class D type sub amp and it must be stable at 1 ohm loads, power output between 600-800 watts RMS and it won't be a Kicker amp. They are not 1 ohm stable.

OK, let's get focused on hammering out the initial plans for this install and take a systematic approach to pulling things together. What say you Bill?

Swez

PS As for speaker wires, #16 gage is plenty for the interior speakers mentioned in this car. As for sub wiring, #12 gage is plenty good up to 2,000 watts. Both are cheap and easy to find most anywhere.



Reply Posted: 11/4/2009 20:30:52 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

I'll try to break my messages up into paragraphs as you requested from now on. I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused but I have a tendency to ramble when I get started on a subject.
http://www.bizrate.com/car-sub-woofers/kicker-compvr-cvr12-4-12-in-subwoofer--pid7582954/ This is the link for the kickers I have. I have a question about one of them though. One of the wires that goes to the speaker diaphragm (the plastic part of the cone) is broken loose. I can see a little bit of the wire protruding from it. Is there any way I can heat the plastic up and reattach the wire or any other process of repairing it or is it ruined? I really dont know how to clarify what I'm saying so if there;s any way I can elaborate on this let me know.
Picked up a kenwod amp today, here's the link to it. http://www9.dealtime.com/xPF-Kenwood-KAC-7202-150W-x-2-Car-Amp-2-channel-Amps. I don't know anything about these but I think the kicker zx 450.2 would be the better one to me. With you being the wiser soul, I'm waiting for your suggestion on this.
After doing the big 3 wiring should i run 4 aug all the way to the trunk and then put the capacitor in there and then come out into a junction box so I can neatly attach it all to the mdf board with the amplifiers?
Should I put an 80amp fuse at the battery or in the trunk before the capacitor if I run the 4 aug all the way to the trunk?
For the RCA wires would high quality audio wires off from AV cables work if I remove the video cable? I have 2 20 ft runs of AV cables and that would save me buying any more wire,
as always thanks to everyone for all the input.
Till next time Bill

Reply Posted: 11/5/2009 02:19:58 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Let's try this...

I'll try to break my messages up into paragraphs as you requested from now on. I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused but I have a tendency to ramble when I get started on a subject.

http://www.bizrate.com/car-sub-woofers/kicker-compvr-cvr12-4-12-in-subwoofer--pid7582954/

This is the link for the kickers I have. I have a question about one of them though. One of the wires that goes to the speaker diaphragm (the plastic part of the cone) is broken loose. I can see a little bit of the wire protruding from it. Is there any way I can heat the plastic up and reattach the wire or any other process of repairing it or is it ruined? I really dont know how to clarify what I'm saying so if there;s any way I can elaborate on this let me know.

Picked up a kenwood amp today, here's the link to it.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Manmu2UYbgX/p_113KAC7202/Kenwood-KAC-7202.html

I don't know anything about these but I think the kicker zx 450.2 would be the better one to me. With you being the wiser soul, I'm waiting for your suggestion on this.

After doing the big 3 wiring should i run 4 aug all the way to the trunk and then put the capacitor in there and then come out into a junction box so I can neatly attach it all to the mdf board with the amplifiers?

Should I put an 80amp fuse at the battery or in the trunk before the capacitor if I run the 4 aug all the way to the trunk?

For the RCA wires would high quality audio wires off from AV cables work if I remove the video cable? I have 2 20 ft runs of AV cables and that would save me buying any more wire, as always thanks to everyone for all the input.

Till next time Bill

Reply Posted: 11/5/2009 03:12:07 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

I sincerley apologize about my last post swez. I completly understood what you ment, but I had my wife typing while I was bringing in some new furniture and I don't think she got the just of what I was saying to do. At the time I as not able to see real straight. I had just returned from the dr and she had given me shots( 10 mg of dilaudid and 10 mg of volume, and 10 mg of toradol.

I don't know if you glanced at my profile or not but my back is pretty busted up. Not trying to make any excuses it just part of my life that I have learned to live with.

I will try to adhere to any suggestions you have to the best of my ability, but I have my own short comings and i do the best with them I can, and I realy do appriciate all that you are doing for me and the ultimate benift that you are giving your knoledge and time to will be my son.

So thanks again Bill

mb

Reply Posted: 11/5/2009 04:10:46 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Hi Bill,

Took the liberty to edit your post so we both can read it. See how much easier it is to read and scope out the key details? OK... on with the show!

That damaged Kicker sub may be too far gone to repair properly. When the voice coil lead in wires are damaged, it's a very dicey fix and they don't usually last long. Plan on replacing it with a matching sub. You can try removing the dust cap and resoldering the voice coil/tinsel lead wire and then reglue the duct cap, but this is a very delicate fix at best.

That Kenwood amp is marginal at best. It is not of the same quality and power as your Kicker amp. May I suggest holding off on bargain hunting deals for now and plan future buys that will pay off later when used?

As for wiring up your amp rack, you can run that #4 AWG wire from the + terminal on the BAT to an 80A inline fuse about 12-18 inches from the battery. From there, we snake it through the engine compartment, through a hole in the firewall and run it back to the amp rack on one side of the carpet rails. You can also run the HU REMote amp turn on line in the same rail as the power cable.

When running RCA signal cables from the HU to the amps, use the opposite carpet rail for that line set to prevent noise problems later. Since you already have AV/Audio RCA's on hand, try them and see how they work in a loose fit wiring plan before bundling them up and hiding them under the carpet rail later. Just leave the yellow AV connect as is. There are patch cables you can use to connect things together as needed when you get to that point.

Your JVC HU has 2 pair of RCA outs. (Front/Rear or Front/Sub) In this scenario, run your RCA wires as F/R and a "Y" splitter to the Kicker amp for sub audio feeds. (A common patch cord set is all you need) You can even make your own if needed. This patch cable should work just fine at the back of your HU:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-127

This patch cable set will allow you to use all 6 Audio/AV cables sets to both amps. I'll explain more later as it's gettin late and time for some sleep.

Swez

Reply Posted: 11/5/2009 04:28:57 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Thanks swez
I'm in the middle of repairing my sons double French horn hope it's done soon as it is getting late again. I realy do appriciate the lending hand, these crazy things I keep coming up with he rather drags hme from a friend or some one gives them to me. I think hu speakers and the rest of the crap I have we have about 235 in vested in it so when I'm done maybe I can get that back with the stuff left over and this turn out to be almost a freebe lol. Have a good one and talk to every one soon.

I'm starting to understand a little with the research I have been doing ante I am very mechanicaly inclined with a bit of common since when itcomes to hands on. Just never was any good with the book learning part.

See ya soon

Bill

Reply Posted: 11/5/2009 15:32:37 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

That's better Bill....

More stuff is not what is needed right now. At least your investment is low and some of ther gear mentioned will be usable in trade or otherwise later. (Freebies are good)

Many guys are visual and prefer to have a hands on approach to stuff like this. (Words get in the way huh?) But since you have a good mechanical background, it makes things easier to communicate to basics and then some.

For now, take care of the lads French Horn. I played that for 6 years in JHS and HS. I can truly say it was one on the hearder instruments to play well, but like anything else, it's all about practicing the right things. (Nothing sounds so robust and beatiful as a well played FH, save for a Sax) Kenny G and others...

Swez

Reply Posted: 11/7/2009 09:36:38 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Hummm... missed your earlier post on the back injury and such. Sorry to hear that hit you with a vengence. Get well soon and we'll get back on track with this project when you are ready.

I'm on the mend from the flu and knee problems too. It's tough getting older and thinking we still bulls in our 20's, but our bodies tell us otherwise.

Hang in there,
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/7/2009 23:27:16 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

I ran the 4 aug wire from the engine compartment to the trunk and I also picked up 2 blocks to turn the 4 aug into 6 gauge wire. I figured these would be good to make the connections from the ground to the amps and from the cap to the amps.

Next question is do you think that one qlogic will be plenty or do you think I should build boxes and use the kickers?

I found one set of monster audio cables to run one amp with about 25 ft long and a set of AV cables that I can run the other one with. they are monster also.

Can I use the video cable as the wire that tells the amp to turn off and on?

Can you point me in the right direction of where to pick up and inline fuse for the 4 aug wire in the engine compartment? If it would be better I have plenty of the 6 gauge left over that I can use to this job, but that just seems like overkill.

If all sounds good so far to you then I will go ahead and hardwire everything as soon as possible.

As far as wiring the amps it looks pretty straight forward. I looked for information on this website for how to wire the amps, but it said to talk to someone like yourself I believe. If this is not so, I will do further research on the subject.

In the meantime if I havent heard back from you I will start working on the speaker wiring if I am able to move tomorrow.

Thank you
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/8/2009 11:31:52 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Good! That #4 and a connecting block to #6-8 AWG wiring for each amp is fine. You can use #6 to both amps if you wish. (Power & grounds)

As for audio signals, use the Monster cables you have and yes, the AV/yellow line can be used as the REMote turn on line if the wires are of good quality and shield the DC power from your audio signals. (Which are low voltage AC signals of 2-4 volts)

As for using the Q-Logic box for your sub, why not? A strong 10" sub in the right sized box will sound very good. Lot's of guys run a single sub below 500 watts RMS. The Lightening Bolt sub may not be strong enough to take all the power your Kicker amp can deliver, but if it's a 4 ohm sub, try it and see how it handles your amp. The worst case, the sub will poop out and you'll have to find a stronger sub to drop in its place.

Can you measure the inner dimensions of this Q box? There is a simple formula we use to calculate the inner air space of an enclosure. The math is in inches: Height x Width x Length/1728 = cubic foot of the box. This works well on rectangles and square boxes. However, if the box is a wedge, round tube or trapazoid type shape, a bit more math is needed.

As for wiring up your system, here's a .pdf file with pics and text on how to install wiring, and work with car panels to hide the wires as well. The power cable is always on one side of the vehicle and the RCA signal lines are on the other rail. Most guys will run their speaker output cables up the middle of the vehicle and under the carpet to the HU harness for the speakers.

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/pdfs/amp_guide.pdf

We don't use the HU amps if you already have a 4 channel amp handy. We simply splice speaker lines into the part of the harness that matches each speaker location and OBSERVE POLARITY CAREFULLY AS YOU SPLICE. The stock speaker wiring is often adequate and need not be replaced. However, the speaker output harness is not connected to the HU at all.

We also use a OEM/Aftermarket conversion harness to make all connections clean and not cut off the factory harness fittings. You can get these at WalMart for under $15.00 and they are matched to your factory and Aftermarket harnesses. (Clean and simple install this way)

Like this: You'll also need the matching fuse holder.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17491_StreetWires+FSAFS80.html

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-20

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-44


As for the main fuse near the BAT, you can buy a good one for low cost at any good car stereo shop. I like Rockford, Knuconceptz or Street Wires as possible options. Here, you'll want and ANL/mini-ANL type fuse system, rated between 80-100 amperes of current.

Tech Tip: The fuse is the last thing you will connect before the wiring is completed.


Did I cover everything?
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/8/2009 15:28:14 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Yes this will do me fine for a while. It is all hit and miss for us any =ways finding us both together and able bodyed to do the work comes in spirts. When we do get it on we try to acomplish as much as possible though.

You and clubknowledge have been a god send though I don't think we would of ended up in as nearly of a clean finish without you. It would of been something unthought out and hurridly thrown together.

Thank you for all the great links ( a picture is worth a thousand words) and all the info.

Till next time;
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/8/2009 20:30:11 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

I do have another question I found. On my particular radio

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UwFFF1fCikD/p_105KDHDR50/JVC-KD-HDR50.html

Would I run rca cables out of the rear speaker rca jacks to the alpine 4 way amp F200

Download OM_MRP-F200.PDF initiated

would I use a y spliter on the rca cables or would I tap into the speaker wires and go that way so I would still have 4 channels.

Then would I Run the kicker amp out of the front/sub rca jacks on the hu or out of the pre amp jacks on the alpine.

It confuses me only because I dont think I can use the rca jacks to run front and rear speakers because of the sub out attched to the front out on the hu, or am I just confusing myself?

If this makes no sense I understand and just say so and I will try to refraise it for you.

Thanks
Back to not understanding it iall
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 05:50:38 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Yes another question. I was considering building a box for the 12" kicker speaker that is not dameged. I'm pretty sure I could repair the wire on the damaged one but I think one would be fine.

I don't quite understand though if this kicker amp would work with it though. The amp in briged mono mode is 4 ohm I beleave. While the kicker 12" compvr 4 ohm dual voice coil would be 8 ohms in series or ohms in parallel. I beleave the number are correct from memory.

If this is so they would not be matched. I'm not sure what all this would do, but I'm guessing in short term it would be sound quality and long term it would cause coponent damage. If you have the time and the willpower to elaborate on this subject I am most interested in learning.

I have done some research on building a box and I do have the skill and knoledge, and tools to do a quality job the math should be no real problem now that I know the formula. I took shop and arcitechitural design throughout my highschool years.

I will sit down sometime today and do the math on the qlogic box and post the results. One more question though. Which is actualy the best sounding box? He is into the same music as me so far. That would be ledzeplin, queen, jethro Tull, I think you can get where I'm coming from. I just hope he keeps to the oldies some of the new stuff out is ok. But I still like the oldies.

Thanks again
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 07:03:33 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Ok disreguard the last post with my apologies. I just reread what you have been posting and most of the answers are here. I have terrible short term memory, I think it is all the pain medicine.

I still don't get the ohm rating on the kicker subs though. But I guess using both of them off of 2 chanels will do the trick. If you could explain this it would be much apriciated. I will see about resoildering a new wire on the kicker that was broken off. It realy don't look that difficult as long as I do it quick and grow 2 more hands to manouver it into the right position.

Now for the box building. Could I get your opinion on which to do I have a few different thoughts.

A basic sealed box.
A porter box.
A cone to cone sealed box.
A cone to cone porter box.

I beleave I am more than capable of any of the above Im just not sure which would be best for this application.

I do appologize for my grammer I know it is horrible. Also does all of my off topic rambling get in the way? If it does I will try to cut it back. I'm sure you have better things to do than read my crap.

Bill

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 07:56:03 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

I did the math on the Q-L box I come up with .75 cubic ft. Here are the internal measurements to make sure i'm doing it correctly if you have time.

To start with it is a wedge at the top it is 3 5/8 deep the bottom is 5 3/8 deep it is 12 high and 21 3/4 long.

These are the inside dimensions.

Thanks
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 08:15:13 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

I found where you was telling me how to run the rca wires out of the hu to the amps I'm not sure I understand why to do it that way. In the post above that I asked you to disreguard I was mentioning this. My question is don't I turn off the hu amp then can I just run the rca cables to the alpine and use them for front and rear. Come out of the pre amp out of the alpine to the kicker for the sub.

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 08:49:49 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

First off Bill, I enjoy your enthusiam for this project. It brightens my day to read your thoughts, questions and what if's. They show you are learning a lot and fast. (Good student!)

Also, it brings both of us back to newbie land. A teacher is only as good as the student's ability to understand and apply knowledge. I have to pace my info to your speed. It does no good if a teacher talks well above/beyond the level of the student and everybody winds up off kilter. That does not seem to be an issue here and others who are tracking this post are learning too. So, it's all good to hash this out completely as possible for everyone that's reading along right?

OK, let's move on to your questions and tick them off the list as best we can.

With your JVC HU, it's best to use 2 pair of RCA outs to power your Alpine amp. If the Alpine does not have any RCA ouputs for the sub amp inputs, the use of "Y" splitter cables off the rear channels will give you a signal for the sub amp. If the F-200 has a pair of Preout RCA's, a short pair of RCA's will do the job of passing audio to your Kicker amp. The crossover and filters on the Kicker amp will tailor the bass to whatever sub is used later off the Kicker amp. These options are the easiest and cleanest way to get your signal wires to the proper channels. (Is that part clear?)

As for the best sub match to this Kicker amp, bridging the amp to MONO mode gives the most power and works best with a net 4 ohm sub load. For the moment, it may be best to use that Q-box and the Bolt sub if it's a 4 ohm single coil sub. We don't know the actual power handling of that sub, but if it's around 250-300 watts RMS, it's usable if the Kicker amp is set up properly. Worst case, the sub does poop out and replacing it with a stronger 10" sub would be a good option. But we also need to know the internal airspace of the box to get optimal results.

Sealed boxes are good for smooth bass response and good for rock, classic and non-rap/hiphop type music. The deep lows in Hiphop/Rap bass tend to do well in ported/vented boxes. Ported/vented boxes tend to bring up the deep lows a few more dB than sealed boxes will. However, getting the demensions and tuning right are critical to best performance and we need a SSF filter to protect the sub in a ported system as well. (That was discussed earlier, using F-Mods) The easiest box to make is a sealed one. There are other more challenging designs out there, but the most natural sounding boxes are sealed or ported ones.

If you really wanted to use a Kicker sub down the road, a single CVR type, 2+2 DVC version would be the proper choice. Here, use the ported/vented design and only one sub. That would be a perfect match for the Kicker amp you have now. (Both coils in series = 4 ohms) This can be done at your leisure and no rush to make one before you have to. You can read more of our FAQ's and DIY notes on the site to get the pros and cons of various enclosure designs. (Sealed, Vented, Isobaric, Bandpass and other designs)

Grammer and syntax... forget about it. As long as we can figure out your direction and methodology, that's good enough. None of us are English Majors with a big stick to whack ya if the grammer and sentence structure are a tad off. That's not the focus of this club. If some ramble along, we can usually figure out the meat and potatoes of the meal and take it in stride. We don't judge others. We just try to meet the reader/poster on common ground.

Are you familiar with Ohm's Law? It's a basic tool we use to calculate resistive loads, wattage, voltage and current flow values. If you want a good cheat sheet to fill in the math gaps, print out this pie chart and learn to manipulate the variables that are known, to get the values that are not know:

http://www.installer.com/tech/ohmslaw.html

I use this one a lot when designing and probing the right combinations of gear for a given system. It would be a good investment to buy a Digital Multimeter for testing various parameters and calculating the rest. If you have a Harbor Freight Tool near you, they carry sveral basic and advanced meters at very good prices.

Finally, it's been a blessing to work with you on this project. I got sick at work and now my knees are a mess. I may be off work for some time until all this clears up. This site and a few other things help keep me sane and mentally sharp while the body is on the mend. You and a few others have been a God send during this time of weathering the storms of life. Consider it just one of those things that happen and we try to make the most of it along the way.

Swez ><>



Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 11:28:08 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Thank you sir and all the others that are following. This info is just what the dr. asked for. I hope you are back and kicking soon my friend, I have been out of serious work going on 15 years now and it's hell (pardon the french). I invested in this laptop in may of this year and i'm trying to find my way around still. I am so glad I stumbled into this site I watch alot not always loged in because it seems like every time I start reading there is a link I start following and end up all over the web.

All the post I have read here have been very interesting and it gives me something to look forworard to with all this time I have on my hands it pays to have something to peak my interest.

So thanks to all and have a great day:)
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 14:28:03 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Sir? Please... we are both men of knowledge, faith and courage to get as far as we have. We put on our sweats, one leg at a time and if you love fishing like I do, waders are the same. hehe

I commend you for staying sharp and buying a lapper to stay connected after all those years of hit/miss work time. My work history is spotty for the past 10 years due to physical limitations as well. It is "hell" wanting to work, but unable to keep pace in a physical job and having a background other things that have since left left the US for cheap foreign labor. (Microcircuits materials technology sales)

Your Q box sounds like a good candidate for an Alpine 10", SWR-1022d sub:

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&source=hp&q=alpine+1022d&rlz=1W1GGLG_en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=TXb4Sty5A5P6MMXl-egF&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CCEQrQQwAw

http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_500SWR1022/Alpine-SWR-1022D.html?o=P&showAll=Y&tp=111

This is one of the cleanest sounding power subs on the market for under $100.00. It's a 2+2 DVC sub and when wired in series, you get a net 4 ohm load. A great match for that Kicker amp and Q box. Note the depth of this sub as it is massive. (Just under 7 inches deep)

If your box is shallow, (under 6 inches deep) fabricating a 2.5" trim ring will allow it to fit. Or, mounting the sub with the magnet outside the box will also work. either way, it will sound fine. (Some guys really like the mag outside the box look) I prefer the inside the box to protect the sub as much as possible.

If the Alpine seems like too much hassle, we can look for another brand that fits your box w/o the modifications.

What say you?
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 16:20:36 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

this sounds like a wize choice and a very impressive looking speaker also. I'm not sure when I can make the purchase so I might just through the box with the bolt speaker in there for now and see how long it last. with the hollidays comming up Im not sure how soon I can do it. He might take the sub for a B-day present though I'll have to run it past him . His birthday is the 17th of dec. or maybe an early christmas.

But you know how that goes I'm sure he will want me to fork that out seperate as he has set plans for those gifts already and a speaker isn't one of them.

One idea though what do you think about me trying to get rid of the kicker speakers, the960 watt 2 chanel kenwood amp, and the bumper subs, or should I hang on to them. If you think it is a good idea to go ahead and get rid of them which I wouldn't mind doing let me know. And if you or any one else reading this could use any of these or could tell me what a fair price would be I would part with them cheap.

I hope it was alright to put this in the post I did not see any where That it stated I shouldn't. Any feed back would be greatly appriciated just remember that the one kicker has a bad wire and I have no idea of any value on any of it because it was all virtually free for me.

I have tried to find a pic or more info on the Q box but no luck I'm pretty sure it is what you would call a truck wedge box and it is made out of 5/8 mdf. I goofed when I calculated a little though I didn't pull out the speaker and see about braces and take them into the formula. Another thing I am wondering about is that there is a thin plastic cover aproximatly 8" in diameter on the back. Where this plastic is should I take a peace of board caulk and screw over this hole or is the plastic sufficient?

I will do some research and see if I can figure out what would be fair prices on the things I mentioned and a couple of other things I have and maybe I can round up enough money to pick up the speaker and have some extra to through towards club k, this would work out great for all.

Your astute pupil
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 16:53:26 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Astute pupil indeed! That sums things up pretty well.

Frankly, if you can cash in on selling some of the gear you have acquired and buy quality gear, that would be a plus. If used, figure about 50% of new as a good selling price. If you can sell what you have and buy the Alpine SWR as mentioned, that would be a good trade.

As a guide, shoot for $40.00 per sub on the Bumpers. The one good Kicker sub may fetch $50.00 to the right person. The damaged one can be tinkered with, but in most cases, the repair won't last. This repair is iffy at best.

Your best bets on selling used good is e-bay or Craig's List. We do not endorse sales and marketing of such goods at CK. If you find a buyer on CK, do it via private e-mail as we/CK cannot be liable if the deal goes south.

Also, you can sell the Q box as is and make another box later if desired for the Alpine SWR sub. The raw materials are about $25.00 in wood, glue & screws. Add another $20.00 if you carpet the box to match the interior of this car. (A labor of love?)

3M's 777 spray adhesive is an excellent choice for carpet to box adhesive. You can buy 1/2 sheet of 5/8" MDF and that should be enough for a box under 1.0 cf for the woofer. We just neeed to adjust the box parameters to get a good fit and sound great too. Do you know any carpenter/fabricators that use MDF in bulk? If yes, the box price will be lower depending on the price of MDF. (3/4" MDF is preferred here, but you can get by on 5/8's as the box is pretty compact.

Comments?
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 17:49:35 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Don't get me wrong please. I would rather do this right while I am doing it and usally the few bucks wouldn't be a problem it's just the time of year. You see my anaversery is aug 14, my birthday is aug 25th, my wifes b-day is october 22nd, my daughters b-day is sept 10th, my grandsons b-day is nov 2nd, my grand daughters B-day is nov 28th, my sons B-day is dec 17th, christmas, and finaly my dads b-day is jan 7th. This time of year just kind of hurts the old mans wallet. I realy wanted to have this project finished by his B-day but like I told him good things come to those who wait.

I completly understand why club k keeps out of the dealing with goods part it can be trickey and there are some very dis honest people out there. I do appriciate the advice on prices though because I had no idea where to start. All I really want to do is get the figure to gether on how much it is going to cost me around 120-140 I figure and try to get atleast part of it out of what I have and From what you say I think Ill be close enough if there is just someone on craigslist that need the stuff.

While I'm at it can you think of anything else that I might should invest in while I'm putting money back.

If this turns out as well as it is looking I am starting to think I might do might my new f-150 after the first of the year but that would be a bit more pricy because I would want to do every thing new. But that is a subject for a lattter date. But you see what you got me into now Ill want to do everyones vehicle on the block, just to have something to do and stay hot on this site. I find myself realy liking it here and spend more and more time here.

Thanks
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 20:57:38 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

That's too funny and when this bug bites, you will probably find yourself strolling down upgrade alley for your F-150 too. Those are easy to work on in many ways, depending of the cabin configuration. There are also some awesome 6x8 ovals I have found for this truck, but they are not cheap. (Infinity 2-way Coaxials and Components) They definitely like amping to get the job done and if you have the budget in time, a 1/2 Din EQ/Line Driver really brings the system to life. All the tweak toys are in the dash for your immediate access.

Wow, look at all the grand kids and such in this family. My daughter just turned 19, going to college in the Chicago area and our son will be 16 in January. They live w/ Mum and she remarried a while back and seem to be doing well above average. So, all is as best it can be for now. My daughter came out for a visit last summer and we had a blast. She's a spitting image of her Mum and a snappy wit to match. Oh lord it was good to see her again after 6 years of waiting. I took her on a picnic and goaded her to try her hand at fishing that day. By golly, she took the challenge and after some practice, she was tossing that rod like a good rookie. (Am beaming right now if ya can't tell)

"See what I got you into now"? Oh really... well, ya ain't seen nothin' yet. After a few installs under your belt, you may find a passive income source that puts a few bucks in the old goodie bag for next years' F-150 upgrade. There's money to be made in the garage if you have the right skills, tools and enough clients to keep up with. Your best demo will be the F-150, so do it right, neat and clean and it'll bring lots of biz your way later.

Finally, like you... I came to CK about 10 years ago looking to add a modest sub system. We had more people here back then and I picked up on things pretty fast as an A/V Tech and doing live sound for a few years. (We built a lot of custom speaker rigs back then) It was a natural shift to car audio, but the tools and toys were not as complete as they are today. Yep, I loved it and think you will too. There's nothing like getting a few well-funded installs under the belts to pay for our own hobbies.

What next Bill?
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 22:03:48 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

well I'm gonna be tied up for a few days with other things I guess I have the car in the garage with the battery charger on it. Some one left the door cracked and it it had a dead battery this evening when I got to it. I bet I was the culprit to.

My dad lives with us, He is 80 and requires assistance so we took him and my step mom in about 4 years ago. She passed october 4th last year it was really hard on my son this year at trick or treat time so I know the upcoming hollidays are going to be hard on the lad.

My father is an ex-prisoner of war in korea he spent 37 months in various prision camps. If you have heard much about the korean war he was in the tiger death march really bad voodoo.

He has a couple of appointments at the V.A. this week and my 2 weekly trips to my doc this will wear me down pretty much usally. The V.A. trips are real killers if you never have had the pleasure.

I just got back in from putting the wheel chair carrier on the truck so I am wore down again. I dont forsee any real progress untill maybe the weekend but as they say you can't rush perfection haha.

Planned on working on it some today but ended up in the pool and giving the mutts baths. I have no real priorities I just do what I want when I want any more (always wanted to say that).

As for a multi meter I have one that is pretty good it is a t5-600 fluke. It has a few miles on it but still runs good. Like me every thing I have has seen its better days but still gets the job done.

I noticed you must have a small sleep disoder problem also. I have noticed you on all hours day and night.

As for childern my son as you probably figured out turns 16 on the 17th of dec, and my daughter turned 24 in october, my grand son turns 3 in nov. and my grand daughter turns 1 in nov.

I hope this aimless rattle was ok it was nice being to tell someone about my acomplishments I don't get around to sharing much of my personal life to the people around here alot of people run when they find out you have baggage so I keep my personal life well personal. Thanks for the kind ears all and I'll try to stay on topic from now on I was just in need of a small release.

good evening to all
take care of those knees swez
and taalk to ya soon
Thanks

Bill

Reply Posted: 11/9/2009 23:03:16 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

SWEZ and all that have been following my article if you would like a little insight into my life I updated my profile so it does tell a little about me now.

Good luck to everyone and hope your projects go as smooth as mine has.

Bill :)

Reply Posted: 11/10/2009 00:09:26 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

I have to stop reading so much of this site it just brings up more possibilities for me. SWEZ while reading a forum you where in tonight I seen where you where discussing adding an eq to help feed the rca's to the amps. I know this isn't a high end install but while i'm doing it would adding an eq be of a benefit to this system? I have an easy access 1 dinn slot right under the.
hu where the right eq would look awfully sweet

I don't know why the thought never crossed my mind berore. I have always liked the look of a decent eq properly installed and they are very handy for making minor tweaks. I will look online while I am at all these dr. appointments. I have started carying my sons ipod when I go now that I am learning to use the net.

So if you care to elaborate and have any suggestions on what to look for just give me a yell. Also tell me if it's a waste of time and effort your the teacher here I just have all the Questions.

Bill

Reply Posted: 11/10/2009 11:02:57 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Hey Bill,

Glad to see ya posted more stuff over night. I thought about mentioning the EQ option, but paused due to the tight budget of this project. Yes, it would add a whole new dimension to the sound and install options as well. Clarion makes a few nice kits and reasonable too. (5-7 bands are plenty good for a mobile setup)

Keep the questions coming. At the moment, I have "too much time" on my hands of late and it's good to do something to keep the mind active and engaged. Yes, my sleeping patterns are all messed up right now. I sleep a few hours at night, get up and then nap as needed. When I have a steady job, this all changes and I get on a schedule that fits with the job and take a very diciplined approach with priorities to insure that things get done in a timely and schedule way.

Without a steady job right now, I just drift with the tides. (I prefer sturcture and setting goals) But since the knees are still pretty tender, not much to do but rest, tinker when I can and sleep.

Like your story, I live with my 79 year old stepdad. Mom passed away 3 years ago and now we just live like a couple of bachelors. He does his thing and I do mine. A few years back, both Mom and Pops had some serious health issues and I spent a lot of time getting them to the doc and then home care for them as needed. I was on call as a A/V Tech back then and had both an income and flextime to care for my aging parents as needed. It worked out well in all and I was very glad to be here with Mom for the best years of her life. I finally had the opportunity to give back to her, what she did for me as a kid.

It's sad that she passed so suddenly before Christmas 2006, but she was 80 already and did not suffer a long-term illness. My Dad died of asbestos cancer in 1996. I did have a short window to say good bye before he passed and settled our differences before he passed. He suffered for 18 months before he passed away. Mom did her best to keep him comfortable and such, but it took a big toll on Mom as she had to do most of the care on her own.

Sadly, Dad alienated his 3 boys as either a tyrant or a neglectful father. (Depending on who tells the story) From my point of view, we will reap what we sewed. He sewed fear, intimidation and lots of physical/verbal and emotional abuse on us. However, he was a good provider and kept a roof over our heads during the tender years. It was all he knew and may God have mercy on his soul.

I forgave him before he passed away and the same with Mom. That's all we can do and move on. However, they are now in God's hands and let Him sort out the details and destination they will endure.

Sorry to be so morbid and graphic about thingsm, but we reap what we sew in life. If e reap goodness and harmony, it will come back to us when needed. But if we sew destruction, indifference and a lack of compassion, that too will multiply exponentially later. We reap more than we sew, and in a latter season as well.

So much for philosophy, ying and yang and all that stuff. We are all fallible human beings, searching for balance and a better way to do life then we experienced as kids. But there is hope if we bow our knee and ask for forgiveness and move on. If you wish, check out this song by Don Henley: "The heart of the matter".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLgUuHl2xJo

Swez

Reply Posted: 11/10/2009 12:25:57 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

We just got home from the va this tripa can be pure hell. We arrived at 7:30 this morning and got done at about 12:30. He goes to the va here in tampa fl. and this was just 1 appointment.

We are strugling with quite a few things with him but I wouldn't do this any other way. the time we are having together there is no way to express the how lucky I am. This is also great for my son not many grand childern get to have such a close relation.

You would not beleave what my siblings are doing to my father, but I will not go there unless you ask me to. I don't mind sharing I just don't know if you want to know how cruel some people cam be.

as for the eq I am going to look arounod and see if I can find something to fit the budget. I think I need one with 6 rcas out front,rear and sub.

Reply Posted: 11/10/2009 12:54:45 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

What volt output should I be looking for when I look at eq's?

Reply Posted: 11/10/2009 15:30:55 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Yes, I know how cruel family can be with each other and witness it here too. Fortunately, my stepdad is healthy again because I was able to intervene and get him help on time. A Quint-bypass was needed, I saw the signs and took immediate action.

Same with Mom... she had a heart attack one morning as we were having coffee but I was a bit slow on the uptake and signs. Tried to call her Doc, but it took too long so to be on the safe side, 911. Sure enough, she had a blockage, needed a stent and refused it. So, we had a family meeting at the hospital, talked with the Doc and finally made it clear... "Mom, we want your come home, but not until you get the stent". That did the trick and she was home 3 days later. That one bought her 6 years of very active life.

Anyway, now it's just my stepdad and me, looking out for each other. We get along very well, do some projects together and try to work as a real father & son. Yes, we have our grumpy moment too, but we always talk them out w/o shouting, swearing or being uncivil. Heck, that's a lot better than I ever had with my blood Dad.

As for most EQ/LD systems, they generate 6-8 volts depending on the preamp inside. The trick to good EQ use, cut the mids and boost the lows and highs a few dB until it sounds clear and clean. A +3dB boost is usually enough. The mids may sound best at -3 to -5dB cut. That's because of how the ear works and is most sensitive in the midrange part of the musical spectrum.

As for the Cap, it needs to be feeding the sub amp only. Deep low notes draw a lot of power when they hit. Mids and highs are not Capped as they are way less demanding in their applications. Most guys will run the sub amp up to about 80-120 Hz. (LPF settings) From there, the mids/highs take over. (HPF settings)

Make sense?
Swez

PS Sorry to here it was such a tough trip to the VA today. But as you say... that's what needs to be done and that's all she wrote. I commend you for serving him this way. We are our parents keepers at some point in life as they won't be here forever either. Enjoy what you have together now and your kids will understand what to do when the time comes to give back to you and your wife. ;-)

Reply Posted: 11/10/2009 15:56:47 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Thanks for the kind words and may god be with you and yours. I have finaly got every thing bolted down power wires run and most if them tucked. Next is to get the speaker wires run I guess and the audio cables run.

I still have to put in the fuse for the main wire and hook it to the battery but that will be the last thing on my agenda. I am trying to decide on wether to go ahead and run the wires and hide them or just lay them in until I hear how it sounds. We are getting very ancious and I know I could through some av wires on and hook up speaker wires in about a half hour but I am trying to decide on the eq first and come up with the sub you suggested. Do you have any suggestions on any name and models for the eq?

Should the Eq have an amp in it or not? I'm thinking no unless it can be turned off, which would make no sense to buy one with an amp in it. I think I just want a good 7 band single or half din with front rear and sub out?

As far as the sub I can see the money possibly at the begining of the month if all goes well. And if some thing that I have posted I may have the possibility of doing it sooner.

As far as the eq goes I'm not sure of prices yet (I have not taken the time to look) but a I am going to look and see if jvc has anything that would go with the hu without breaking the bank and be decent at the same time.

Well enough rambling I am out of here for a while after I hit some of the forums and see if there are any suggestions on eq's. lol

see ya
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/10/2009 23:57:02 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Here goes all, I just got everything wired tourned off the internal amp on the radio turned all levels down to low. I think I have the settings right on the amp's but I'm not real sure about the high pass and all that jive.

My sons school is in session tomorrow but I told him he didn't have to go because of it being veteran's day. So we put our heads togther and made a harness for the speaker wires and rca cables. We have not done any finishing work just laid the cables down the center of the car.

It's driving him crazy now because all we need to do is hook up a sub and the hot wire to the battery terminal and it should be ready to rock and roll. We hope!!

Now my Question is how to set the switches on the amp I have read it a few times but i'm leary that Im missing something and don't want to screw every thing up.

If you could give me a run down in simple english I would appriciate it very much. In the mean time I know I was at a link that had a tuning disk to down load. I am going to hunt it down tonight hopefully and then call it a night.

For the time being we decided to through the q-logic box and bolt speaker in there untill I have the money for the Infinitey ( the first of the month I hope). And we have every thing there to hook up an eq just finding one and getting it now is another task.

We will be awaiting any suggestions on what to do to make sure every thing is ok before throughing the switch.

Every one have a great veterans day and god bless all those who have and are serving for our rights and freedom.

Bill

Reply Posted: 11/11/2009 04:13:28 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

ANOTHER SLEEPLESS NIGHT IN DEE-TROIT!

So, might as well noodle out some ideas for ya to work on tomorrow with the lad.

Leave all wires loose for now until you get a good, noise-free system. Once that's done, then hide your wiring later. If an EQ system is used, you'll need 3 pairs of RCA audio cables. (Front, Rear & Sub) I don't know what JVC makes, so a little web surfing is in order.

OK, to setup your system well follow these basic steps to get in the ball park:

http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t57

The voltage numbers will need to be tweaked for the amping power you have at hand. The F-200 is rated at 40 watts RMS to a 4 ohm speaker per channel.

The target voltage is: Sq rt of Watts x Ohms or 40 x 4 = 160 (12.6 volts AC) You may find the rears a tad too hot and dial back on the gain for good fade control. Set the HPF at 80 Hz. (Blocks the lows)

Once you get the front and rear channels balanced and matched up, then add the sub. Set the LPF on the sub amp to 80 Hz., and then adjust your gain until it sounds well balanced to the front and rear speakers. I would not go much past 300 watts for that Bolt sub as it may not handle that much power. (35 volts AC tops) If the sub makes mechanical or cone pop/whop noises, too much power. Dial back a few volts until it's clean and pure tones. The rest is using music you know well to dial in the tone controls at the HU.

Tech tip: To do any last miute tweaks, I find it most helpful to open the front doors and back hatch/trunk. Walk behind the car about 25 feet and listen closely for shrill mids/highs or a muddy sub. Have your son dial up the volume on the HU until it starts to sound rough and then back off a few notches til all is clean and full. That's your set points in this rig and you're ready to hide wires when this stage is completed to your satisfaction.

FYI: Grounding the amps and HU are very important to prevent engine noise problems later. Make sure the amps are grounded to bare metal and the HU ground is also grounded separately. (Not the factory harness ground) As long as your power wires do not get too close to the RCA lines, it should be a noise free system. If not, move your wires around a tad until noise is gone.

Hope this is very clear and easy to understand. If you add an outboard EQ/LD later, a few adjustments will be needed, but the speaker voltage set points are the same. Copy, paste and print these details so you have them on hand as you work OK? This is the Installer's handbook or Bible if you wish. It's a combination of Genesis, Mat 5 and Revelations.
Not to be sacreligous at all, but you get the point right?

God bless your efforts and bless me with a good report when finished,
Swez ><>

PS Are you familiar with a guy by the name of Carman? He's a wonderful Christian singer and writer. If you don't have any of his great music, perhaps we could swap e-mails and share a few tunes and other topics as well.

Reply Posted: 11/11/2009 08:59:12 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Thank you sir for the info this should get us quite away. We wont have alot of time to work today we are having a picnic at the park with dad.

After my last mesage last night I went out to the pool and found the dogs had been in it so I spent most of the night cleaning up after them. It looked like it had a dirt bottom. One of them 9Neather one usaly digs) but one of them got at the edge of the deck and it looked like they intentionaly threw the dirt into the pool.

On the amps when I get done setting then should they be put on high low or what. This is the part that is confusing me now. It seems like the more I read on it the more confused I get. The book learning part is hard for me but you have done an ecclent job in putting it into words that I can understand.

Thanks
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/11/2009 11:17:04 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

You can set the crossover filters now if you wish. Most 2 & 4 channel amps have a combination offered.

High Pass Filter: This allow mids and highs to pass to speakers and blocks bass (80 Hz. is a good number for F/R setting on the Alpine)

Flat/Off: This passes all range from bass to highs. (Do not use this setting)


Low Pass Filter: This is for your sub amp. Set the Low Pass Filter to 80 Hz., as well. It will block the highs and only pass bass to your sub.

Here's some good snapshots of the Alpine f200:

http://www.crutchfield.com/s_500MRPF200/Alpine-MRP-F200.html?tp=115

Note the switch positions and use the HPF on both F/R channels. Do not use the bass boost feature on rear channels as you have a sub for that. The filters are preset at 80 Hz., so that's done already. All that's needed is to set your amp gains with the meter. Just follow Victor's setup notes and all is well.

As for your kicker amp, I found some good pics of the zx350.2. Hopefully, they have the same layout and features.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6571_Kicker+ZX450.2.html

The filter setting are LP on the switches and your frequency target is 80 Hz. (11:00 position on the dial) If you need a tad more bass, use the bass boost feature, but no more than +6dB boost.

Finally, did some surfing to find a JVC EQ unit for this project. It's like looking for Hen's teeth. (Can't seem to find anything suitable) If you have time, get on Google or JVC's main site and see what's out there. I did find several nice ones in other brands as a backup point if needed. (Under $100.00 will get the job done)

Have a nice picnic with Pops and wish him a Thankful Veteran's Day for me OK? My Pops seved in Korea too. He was an MP and some of his stories are just plan madness. I think he lived the life of Reily when deployed and got busted down a few ranks for his shennanigans.

He's a real character even at 79 years old and will fight at the drop of a hat if provoked. We had a few "play tussles" in the past and he still had game alright. I think he could still be leathal with his bare hands of a baton. (Go figure huh?) LOL But now that he's had bypass surgery, we don't play "rough house" any more. I want that man heathly and around another 10 years.

Have a blessed day,
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/12/2009 07:09:39 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Here goes again. I down loaded what i call a test beep.

I put it on a thumb drive I hope thats ok.

My jvc goes to 50 so I put it on 40.

not using cap as of yet.

I ran one set of rca's to the alpine 4 way from the front output of the hu. There I used 2 sets of y splitters. I checked my voltakes coming in 13.4 on both amps.

I pulled out a seat bolt and scraped every thing to make sure of a good ground, all the voltages are holding steady.

My turn on wires are both at 12 volts.

every thing is turned to zero or off on hu and amps.

When I check the chanels coming out of the alpine if I adjust the gain all the way up all I get is 6 volts on each channel.

on the kicker I am getting a big fat zero.

So where did I goof at this time.

I still have the filters off. And the H U on zeros.

Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bill

Reply Posted: 11/12/2009 11:20:19 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Alright, let's do the basics and see if that changes things. Calm down, take a few deep breaths and clear your mind.

1. Hook up your speakers/sub and do the voltage tests with an external load on the amp circuits. (Some amps will not register an output voltage w/o a load)

2. Set the filters on each amp as mentioned before.

3. Make sure you have audio signal wires connected to both amps.

4. If you have the LP filter turned on your Kicker amp and use a 1KHz test tone, it will not be heard. The filter is blocking it just as it should.

5. For the sub test, use the 50 Hz tone and set the LPF to 80 Hz. You should get a nice, steady bass tone if the amp is working properly. (Check the fuses on amp and make sure the protect light is not on.

OK, that's the basics for this phase of the game. Hopefully both sets of RCA cables are good and so are their jacks. This can be tested with your meter if needed. Use the resistance/Ohms function select and connect each probe to the claws on each end. If good, you should see under 1 ohm resistance. Now test the center pins in the same manner. If you get a reading of infinite resistance, that wire/connection is bad and needs repair.

Good luck brother,
Swez

PS Note the number of reads on this post. (338 and counting) Others are reading this too. That's good to see others learning as we go through the process.

Reply Posted: 11/12/2009 13:16:49 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

I to am very impressed at the people watching, it makes me think maybe I'm not so far off track with my questions as I thought. Thank you for the new info but it looks like I might be on hold for a few days.

II went to the dr. and she said to get a bicycle and start riding a few minuets every day. Me and the wife had already been looking at them we both need the exercise an I am not able to walk but about 200 feet at a time.

Anyways we went this morning to the schwin shop this morning and bought matching hybrid bikes. Don't even want to go there with the price but the treks were even more and when I buy something like that that I am going to need for years to come I do spend the extra buck.

We went out this morning for about 2 miles got home and was feeling to good. So I clipped the dogs hair now I'm down for the count.

y question is can I just leave every thing turned down and let him listen to the radio the way it is for a couple of days or should I leave it disconnected? He goes crazy because I drive him back and forth to school a couple days a week in it so it's not just sitting.

Awaiting a word from the wize and to all that are watching you are always welcome from me to drop a line in here If it would help. I don't think that it would hurt a thing I'm sure you have questions about my questions. Thats cool isn't it swez.

Thanks for the help and watch close you never know what will pop out next.

I am supposed to go to town tomorrow could you give me an idea of what kind of eq to look at so I can get some ideas. I might go ahead and invest in some new rca cables also not real sure what to get I heard monster you pay more for the name and there are others out there of as good of quality if not better. The only problem that is one of those he said she said ordeals and I don't listen to them very well. I know you would know the difference swez or any of the other smarter than I (dont take much in this field) people out there.

I did some searching for jvc eq's didn't find anything that they are still making. Now I am just looking for a good single or 1/2 din and I wouldn't know where to start unless I go by reviews so I'll await your Ideas and filter from there
Thanks

Bill

Ps I apolojize for the rambling again I just feel at home here.

Reply Posted: 11/12/2009 14:27:00 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Hi Bill,

Glad to her you bought a bike. I have a older Schwinn Hybrid and it's great for all but heavy sand and muddy conditions. It's best on pavement and well packed dirt roads or dry bike paths. Man, I miss riding too. It's been 3 years up in the rafters and have to move a lot of stuff around to get to it... :-(

As for a good EQ/LD kit, consider Clarion. This one is very good for under $75.00 and has all the features and quality we expect from Clarion.

http://www.shopping.com/xPO-Clarion-Clarion-EQS746-Equalizer-7-Band-In-Dash-Rotary-Equalizer-with-Subwoofer-Crossover-Auxiliary-Input

RCA cables: You need 3 long sets from the EQ to your amp channels and a short pair from the HU outs to the EQ. Monster does makes a pretty good cable, but way over priced IMHO. They are also bulky and having 3 pairs will be a challenge to stuff in some carpet rails. Street Wires and Knukonceptz are my top choices. You can buy them at good prices and they come in 1 and 2 pair sets. (2 and 4 singles)

4 Channel: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_211ZN5435/StreetWires-Zero-Noise-5-4-channel-Patch-Cables-11-5-feet.html?search=StreetWires+VENDORID211&ssi=0&searchdisplay=StreetWires&tp=1694 target=_blank>http://www.crutchfield.com/p_211ZN5435/StreetWires-Zero-Noise-5-4-channel-Patch-Cables-11-5-feet.html?search=StreetWires+VENDORID211&ssi=0&searchdisplay=StreetWires&tp=1694

2 Channel: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_211ZN5435/StreetWires-Zero-Noise-5-4-channel-Patch-Cables-11-5-feet.html?search=StreetWires+VENDORID211&ssi=0&searchdisplay=StreetWires&tp=169

They come in different lengths as needed and a little shopping should beat the prices that Crutch offers. (Google search time)

If you want tunes for now, just hook up the 4 channel and HU and set your gains to midpoint for now. He won't have a sub until we figure out what's up there, but a short RCA patch cord from the Audio outs to the Kicker inputs might do the job for now. If you go the EQ route later, some rewiring will be needed, but not a horrible process.

As for our readers, am glad they are just reading info for now. If others want to jump in at the end, that's cool. But I find it best to do what we are doing now w/o too much interjection from others. Too many cooks in the kitchen can be a real nightmare and more confusion than you need right now. The "Mano-a- Mano" approach is often the best in this scenario.

Our Golds know when to jump in and we respect each others comment if we miss a key detail. However, when others hyjack a detailed post like this one, it can be chaos. (Trust me on that one and thanks to all who are reading quietly w/o comments or questions) We don't need to chase rabbit trails as Bill needs all the focused input we can give right now.

If others wish to post their own questions, sure! Just start a new post and we'll try to help as possible. I have been known to juggle 4-5 project at a time, but it's time consuming to give each reader the quality feedback they need and deserve. In short, am glad folks are reading the mail, but not posting on your project. (Unless I overlooked a key aspect and need to set the record straight) Those comments are most appreciated in a timely manner.

Anyway, sounds like you've done enough for the day and some rest is in order. Just pace yourself, be patient and we'll get through the snags as they pop up.

Rest well my friend,
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/14/2009 21:31:36 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Another question. this hu (jvc kd hdr50) has 2 volt pre amp out puts shouldn't I be able to read that at the rca outputs??

Thanks
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/15/2009 00:02:31 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

You might, but may need a load resistor in a patch cord to find out. Have never tried to measure RCA voltage right off the claw and center pin of an RCA jack connected to a audio output

Most amplifiers have a "head- in" resistance between 1000 - 10,000 ohms of resistance. That's a load that helps determine the actual voltage the HU's preamp will deliver. The gain structure ratio of the amp's preamps do the rest per their design parameters.

The fastest way to determine if there is a HU output issue, is to swap wires around to each amp and test from there.

Reply Posted: 11/15/2009 12:28:10 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

Here goes. On the alpine 4 way amp. If I turn the gains all the way up I now get about 11.10 on both sides. I set them on sas close to 10.4 as I could get them. I think the problem lies in the wires though. Just a hunch.

I did pull it loose so I could check the wires they all flat lined so they should have been good. But I think they are breaking down becaus they are pretty old and were in the attic for years.

I live in florida so they got pretty hot in the attic during the summer time. So Hopefully the middle of next week I can order the new wires and a eq( even though the wife is starting to say WHY do you need that) lol.

I'm having to get on the computer in spurts now, because I'm having to borrow mys as mine got a boo boo a couple of days ago. I like the clarion amp you pointed out swez and the wires are alot smaller than the old m onster wires I have so I am going with the wires just for the ease of runing them.

As for the eq I am going to see what I find in a full din also before I make up my mind because when I install this. I just noticed I would have to open up the full din slot or figure out a way to fill in the rest of the slot.

When I get an idea of which one I like I will post it to see what you think I don't know these names like boss and parymid. I have heard them but dont know anything about them. (except what this guy told me) lmao.

thanks swez your the man
enjoy the rest of sunday and chat with ya soon

Bill : )))

Reply Posted: 11/15/2009 13:21:42 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Stick with the Clarion EQ as it's a proven winner. Boss and Pyrimid are at the low end of spectrum and not something I'd generally recommend

Wires... if you did a resistance check and they were pretty close to "Zero" ohms per run, they are OK. Sitting in the attic for a few years is no biggie compared to installed in a vehicle that is parked outside. Where you live, a car get to 120 degress for hours and if the wires can handle that, they are good.

Am not sure, but most imports use a 2 Din factory HU. Now, you have a 1 Din JVC in there and a proper install kit will allow enough space to handle a 1/2 Din EQ and that's plenty.

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-73DkesVIXhW/app/car/mycar.aspx

The voltage range off the amp is low- normal. A lot depends on the signal strength of the test tones used. Adding the EQ will probably bring up the voltage readings at the speaker outputs as the Line Driver feature will add a few dB of output to the amps' input stage. That should get you up to the target voltage w/o buying new RCA wires.

Is the sub connected and working now too?

Have a good day,
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/15/2009 15:12:04 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

yes I looked and I am deffinetly sticking with the clarion. Just when I install it There is a cubby hole that has to be removed to access the second dinn. The frame around the unit that holds the radio air ducks clock and all has a crack in it an is missing the fins in one of the vents. I guess I'll hit a junkyard and pick one up. It shouldn't cost but a couple bucks.

Doing that I can experiment on this one with the eq and see how it looks best before cutting out the cubby hole on the new one.

As for the wires your probably right but I don't understand because there is also like a 4 tenths difference on the same channel. I think Channel is how I should phrase it.

I am using y splitters on the alpine amp to get the front out rca's on the radio to chanels 1,2 3,4.

where the 4 rca ins are on the alpine. There are 2 rca ins right beside them is that for running a sub in from the hu or what I realy don't quite get it.

I don't kn ow if you caught this earlyer in a post but I am downloading the test tones on to a thumb drive not a cd, would that make a difference in the gain?

My gains are over 3/4 of the way up now is this ok or do I need to back them down or can I go even higher with them?
After getting them as close to the same as possible I put on a tune and cranked it the eq was still on flat but it sounded pretty clean just no bass. It brought my neighbor out so I think we are getting pretty close on the cabin.

Now I am going to down load the test tone for the sub and see where we stand there. Wish me luck.

See ya in a few with results.

Bill

Reply Posted: 11/15/2009 16:22:48 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

ok hooked it all up this time adjusted the kicker to 42.4 volts and hooked it to the bolt speaker in the q-logic box. Unfortunatly even the tone sounded like crap. So I left the gain turned down some and the bass boost zereoed.

I turned on some skynard through my Ipod and as long as you kept it pretty flat and down to about 20 on the dial it was loud but flat and the sub still souded like it was full of static.

Looks like I'm buying a new sub soon I might through one of the bumpers in the box and see if it sounds any better if you have no other suggestions.lol\

going for a bike ride to clear the head might work on it more latter might not.

god bless
your friend
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/15/2009 16:59:30 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Quote: "where the 4 rca ins are on the alpine. There are 2 rca ins right beside them is that for running a sub in from the hu or what I really don't quite get it."

Well, it can be done as you have and yes, the preouts on the Alpine can be used to connect to your sub amp inputs. I looked up the details and noted the Alpine has 4 RCA inputs and 1 pair of outputs.

Also, your gain settings on the Alpine are probably pretty close to target. You will get more HU volume when using the tone controls or EQ as well. The main thing is to keep it clean when dialing up the volume. If distortion is present at high listening levels, back er' down a few notches.

A good test tone is normally set to "0 dB" If it -3dB or less, that would tell us why your speaker voltage readings are a tad low. It should not matter what media is used for the source, (CD or TD) as they should calibrate properly either way. You can also test the speaker voltage with music. The meter numbers will change, depending on the music content. That's why we often suggest test tones for the initial amp gain setting process.

Last thought for now, go easy on the gain settings for your sub system. Figure 250-300 watts is probably the most you can expect from that Bolt sub. If it sounds rough and mechanical noise is present, that's a clue that too much power is flowing to this sub. Dial back on the amp gain until it sounds smooth and clean.

FYI: 300 watts is a lot of power to a sub. I have a pair of SoundStream SPL-10's and feeding them with a JBL 2 channel in bridged mode. It's plenty loud in my garage and I dare not go much past 150 watts or the neighbors may get miffed. These subs are very high efficiency and it does not take a whole lot of amping power to rattle the garage doors and sound like a live band inside the garage. Heck, I can close all doors and walk out 100 feet to the street and still hear the bass notes loud and clear. They are rated at 250 RMS per sub. But I stay within reason until I get up the gumption to install new gear in my current ride. (Am not that motivated right now as winter is coming on and cash is tight)

I drive a 2000 Lincoln TC and it is factory amped system. To do it right, I see a lot of work to be done. Have the a nice older Sony HU, a 4 channel and sub amp and some wiring on hand already. Maybe next Spring, I'll get the bug to do the install. Infinity speakers will be my choice.

The daunting tasks are making a smaller sub box and cutting a pass-through hole in the rear deck to allow more bass into the cabin area. Thr rear seats do not drop down and I need every cubic foot of trunk space for fishing gear when we go out. I'd have to pull the full sized spare tire as well. (Lazy huh?) Oh dang, I am just not ready to climb that mountain just yet.

Swez

PS Good luck on your plans today. Hopefully you have some bass when done and ready to rock!

Reply Posted: 11/15/2009 17:27:58 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

I just read your post on the sub part of the install. That sucks, but it may be due to a bad sub or the wrong box size or another glitch to discover.

Dial back on the amp gain for your Kicker amp and see if things get better. If not, we'll have to do some back tracking to find out why? It could be the Kicker amp has internal problems or the Bolt sub is not up to par. If the amp gain is too high, you'll get bad results.

I just ran some numbers and something is not right. If this is a 4 ohm sub, it's getting ~441 watts. (42 x42/4) I suspect the sub amp has a problem or this Bolt is not a 4 ohm sub. It might be better to try a Boomer sub with both coils in series. (8 ohms to the amp bridged) and see how that sounds.

Swez

Reply Posted: 11/15/2009 22:41:28 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

here is a home page that I started. After I set it up i wondered what I would do with it. Well now I know I wish there was some info on it I will start updating it now that I know that there is a use for one. If you look under pictures somewhere in there you will find where everything is laid out in this car. Keep in mind this is a work in process I am posting them in hopes that if I have something wrong or maybe swez or a gold has a better idea for laying it out.

The page name is home.rr.com/1mellofahess

The wires will all have ends soldered on them and heat shrink, and they will all come up right underneath their connections. But this is just my rough lay out untill I get it all sorted out. But after a discusion I had yesterday evening I think I will rerun my 4awg wire to the cabin of the car. Right now I have it ran in the frame work under the car and was told the correct terminology for this and now I will rerun it.

If you could swez explain how you came up with the figures you did for the watts that the boltsub was getting.I just don't understand how you came up with 21 seeing as the only known variables where the 42.4 volts and the setting of 20 on my hu volume. Or am I completly spacing out And you do know the given rms for the amp. I still don't know.

If it's to much I understand BUt I would like an explination so I can try to comprehend it.
I did dial it back and I do have the bass on zero and the filter on off and it was a 50 hertz tone.

Untill next time. I have an eye dr. appointment tomorrow at 9 am in tamps then another dr appoint ment in north lakeland tomorrow at 11:30 I think.

4 appointments for me this week (got to like those dr.s). It seems like I spend more time there than at home any more.

god bless all

your confused one but starting to get a little
Bill :)(:

Reply Posted: 11/15/2009 23:41:24 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

I made a calculation error on wattage from your sub amp. (Me bad...)
The formula is voltage squared/resistance (42 x 42 =1764 /4 = 441 watts)

Not hearing what you have in the sub department makes me wonder if you have a damaged sub or something else has gone off target. That's a lot of power for the sub mentioned and it may be damaged too. Worse yet, that Kicker amp could be having some problems that might require some separate tests. For that voltage level, I'd say your amp is able to put out over 450 watts RMS when bridged to a 4 ohm load.

Tried your home page but it gave me a /404 error code. That means the link is not correct.

Good luck with your Doc visits tomorrow. I too have an appointment with my Doc about the knee issues and will she release me back to work or not. Am getting stir crazy with too much time on my hands. "Idle hands are the devil's workshop."

The good news is I did cut the front lawn today w/o a cane in hand. It felt good and tomorrow, the back lawn is the plan.

Swez ><>

Reply Posted: 11/16/2009 01:23:10 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

the home page is

home.rr.com/1mellofahess

but The pictures are not there now I must of goofed again. I will work on it and see what I can do.

congrats on being able to mow the front lawn just don't push your self or you could permenatley blow those knees.

god bless
Bill

Reply Posted: 11/16/2009 06:42:03 by: admin The Wizard

Here are the images sent to me in an Email:







Reply Posted: 11/16/2009 07:20:52 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! oldtimerocnrol65

sorry about these they were sent to the wrong mail box. I was having a realy off night last night. but they are of the car and thside ofoie hu. lol

Bl :))

Reply Posted: 11/16/2009 08:59:14 by: admin The Wizard

It was no trouble :)

Reply Posted: 11/16/2009 10:34:44 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Hi Walt,

Saw the pics posted and just laughed that you went and posted them for Bill. We discussed this one by phone and I thought.... "Walt will look at these and shake his head and may return them to you."

Surprise! You took the time to crop and paste them to Bill's thread and they came out good too. Thanks for the extra effort.

Too Cool,
Swez

Reply Posted: 11/16/2009 10:39:02 by: admin The Wizard

I actually used my new upload script to upload and resize them. It does a great job **WINK**

Reply Posted: 11/16/2009 13:29:33 by: Sponsor of ClubKnowledge! swez Old Man Audio

Yeah, it sure does and the pic quality is good enough to see the main details too. ;-)

Swez

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